Returning to Songkhla and Talking with the Community of New Generations in the Old City who want to Make Their 'Hometown' a Great Place for Everyone.

~"First, you need to find out if you can actually live here. Some people, because of their profession, really can’t stay. I don’t see why we should force them to stay; let them grow elsewhere. If one day they get tired of Bangkok, they’ll come back on their own.”

~One night in the old town of Songkhla, Am-Phisutpak, co-founder of Grandpa Never Drunk Alone, confessed to EQ that she didn’t return to her hometown to fulfill a dream of running a cool bar, but rather felt compelled to return due to the impacts of the COVID-19 situation. It was quite a struggle for her in the beginning as old friends started to get married and have families, while she had to distance herself from everyone in Bangkok during the lockdown.

~Am’s advice is quite straightforward and resonates with us. She said that encouraging people to return to their hometown may not be suitable for everyone. We should want to return only after we’ve figured out where home truly is. And if our journey brings us back to our hometown, it’s time to make it a better place with our own hands and the experiences we've gained from living elsewhere.

~More than three years after the struggles from COVID-19, Songkhla is now home for Am. It's a place where she still eagerly wants to try new things with passion in her eyes.

Am-Phisutpak Sukvisit, co-founder of Grandpa Never Drunk Alone

~Let's step away from the bar for a moment. Songkhla is commonly known as a model city with strong community involvement in the preservation and development of urban spaces. It is renowned for its old shops, new cafes, cool art spaces, profound bookstores, and its reputation as one of the easiest places to host events.

~These characteristics are the result of the efforts of the people of Songkhla, which can be traced back to 2013 when a group of Songkhla enthusiasts established an international old town conservation association, the Songkhla Heritage Trust (with some earlier efforts as well).

~Songkhla has gradually grown through the collaboration of the government, private sector, and local residents. At the same time, a new generation of locals has returned to their hometown to start businesses—some opening shops, others organizing events, and some working as artists, etc.

~This development continued until Songkhla hosted the Pakk Taii Design Week 2024, from 17-25 August 2024, in the old town of Songkhla.

~But who would have thought that Songkhla, a place where every corner is 'instagrammable,' once experienced a period of decline. Now it has awakened after a brief slumber.

Songkhla Before 2024

~About 400 years ago, Songkhla was an important economic hub. It was once ruled by Javanese leaders and even Persian kings and had a history of trading with the Dutch before it was incorporated into the Kingdom of Ayutthaya. Later, during the reign of Phra Bat Somdet Phra Nangklao Chaoyuhua (Rama III), Songkhla was significantly influenced by the Chinese. Schools, rice mills, buildings, shrines, and Chinese-style architecture appeared throughout the city, alongside traces of Islamic and Western architectural styles.

~However, Songkhla's prosperity slowly declined because many wealthy Chinese residents sent their children to study abroad or in Bangkok. After graduating, these new generations often found work far from home. Additionally, the establishment of Hat Yai Railway Station in 1924 shifted the trade center from Songkhla to Hat Yai. As a result, Songkhla transformed from an economic hub into a city focused on fisheries. Consequently, goods needed to be transported in and out of the city by trucks. Thus, the number of hidden populations and laborers increased, while many Songkhla residents sought new opportunities in Hat Yai.

~As a result, the original buildings deteriorated, the city became empty, and the surroundings grew lifeless.

~This does not mean that they would allow the city's past glory to remain just a memory or merely sought to restore Songkhla to its former status as an economic hub. Instead, they chose to use different local materials and adapt them to modern times harmoniously, making Songkhla a space where new-generation artists can experiment, exchange ideas, and revitalize the city.

~We invite you to explore five communities in the old town of Songkhla that have positioned themselves gracefully. Many of these entrepreneurs are originally from Songkhla and have worked elsewhere before returning to their hometown. The spaces they have created may continue to foster creativity and conversations about Songkhla's future.

a.e.y.space

~Starting from Nang Ngam Road, you can see a.e.y.space, a two-unit white concrete building with a wooden roof frame, featuring a slight decorative cornice above the windows. These elements reflect European architectural influences.

~In the past, these shophouses were the ‘Nam Dao’ restaurant, a Western diner run by Chinese owners, before being transformed into a community art space by Aey-Pakorn Ruchirawilai.

~“I think it's really cool when we turn old things into new things. It's like taking what already exists, whether it's good or bad, outdated or old-fashioned, and adapting or adjusting it into something new. It could be buildings, old skills, or even old art. It's a great asset for the local community, as it allows the old to flourish again.”

~Aey told EQ that he was born and raised in Songkhla, studied in Bangkok, and continued his education in New York. After graduating, he returned to Bangkok to work as an Art Director before coming back to Songkhla to help with his family's business. He then transitioned to running his own printing and advertising business and eventually created a.e.y.space.

~“Sometimes, art is so close to us that we don't realize its value.”

~His experiences living in small, medium, and large cities made him feel like just a small person and helped him build a strong sense of self. As he got older, he began to see his hometown in a new light and found the architecture of Songkhla to be charming. He started to wonder what would happen if art were showcased in a quiet city like Songkhla, where it had not been done for over a decade.

~However, the reason he found this new perspective in his hometown was also due to the support from those around him, which Aey received when he returned to his hometown.

~“I think if I were in Bangkok, I might not have done something like this because the city is so large and I would feel very small. But being here, it’s not that I’m larger or anything, but I feel like I can see opportunities everywhere.”

~Aey's intention is to make a.e.y.space a central space to promote art within the community and encourage community involvement. For example, 5 out of 11 workshops from WORKSHOP FESTIVAL #2 during Pakk Taii Design Week 2024 were held at a.e.y.space. These included workshops such as MOSSIATA’s glass terrarium or tray garden, FAKE FLORIST’s flower crafting using deconstruction techniques, and LIFEWITHNATUREFLOWER’s creation of UV resin necklaces and hair clips.

~The open, airy space with ample natural light makes the first floor an ideal location for art exhibitions and community-focused events. Examples include a sketch workshop for junior high school students in Songkhla by Bangkok Sketcher and Urban Sketching, and the ‘LUNATIQUE’ exhibition featuring the works of modern artists who question existence and non-existence through installation art and erotic photography. Film screenings can also be hosted here.

~The second floor is designated as an artist in residence space and can serve as a small studio, providing opportunities for artists to live, create work, and engage with the city of Songkhla. They can also exhibit their work on the lower floor.

~Returning to Songkhla is like a boomerang effect for Aey, and a.e.y.space has become a vital part of the old town's culture. They are gradually driving the art community, expanding activities for locals, and spreading these vibes throughout Songkhla and neighboring provinces.

~Location: 140-142 Nang Ngam Rd, Mueang Songkhla District, Songkhla 90000

~FB : facebook.com/Aeyspace

~IG : @aeyspace

~Website : aeyspace.com

Grandpa Never Drunk Alone

~Let's take a break from the art scene and head towards the old Songkhla city gate on Nakhon Nai Road. The bar ‘Grandpa Never Drunk Alone’ invites drinkers from the afternoon onwards.

~The square room, with its soft red lighting blending with the natural light outside, operates as a coffee shop offering 5 menu items: Latte, Americano, Matcha Latte, Affogato, and Craft Cola. This is the result of the COVID-19 lockdown, which required pubs and bars to close. As a result, they decided to earn more by selling coffee.

~If you visit around 6 p.m., you might find coffee, alcoholic drinks, or a sign outside saying “Going surfing, be back soon,” because not far away, Chalatat Beach is a tempting spot for surfers. You might catch some waves, skimboard on the beach, or ride a surf skate on the concrete floor along the shore.

~If that’s not your thing, you could ride a motorcycle around Songkhla, circle Ko Yo Island, rest at the Khao Kao Seng viewpoint, and then come chat with the bartender.

~Grandpa Never Drunk Alone was brought to life by Aom-Pichapha and Am-Phisutpak, who returned to their hometown of Songkhla. They started the bar with the concept “because we like drinking with grandpa.”

~Am shared with EQ that her first intention was to help her sister decorate the shop and develop the menu, then return to work in Bangkok. However, the lockdown made traveling impossible, and since Songkhla had only bars, which didn’t suit her taste and weren’t very friendly for solo drinkers, she decided to bring her previous lifestyle to Grandpa.

~“I thought I’d make this place work for myself. This is my lifestyle, so I’m going to do it this way. It’s what I like, and it will naturally attract people like me. It’s like an auntie who runs a food stall that succeeds because people like her cooking. If you say you want it to taste like Bangkok food and ask the auntie to change, that’s not it.”

~Before opening Grandpa, Am had run a bar in Hua Hin and started working on art films and music, but it didn’t work out. That was different from Songkhla, where everyone is genuinely involved and supports each other.

~During the conversation that night, Am pointed around and provided some background information: the area where the bar is located was once a red-light district, and the side alley was a brothel for fishermen who came onshore. Over the years, she describes the people who visit the bar as “lonely people because of the word ‘Alone’ in the name; it attracts lonely souls (laughs).”

~While many ‘grandpa peeps’ (a term for the bar’s customers) were chatting joyfully about the town, Am revealed her future plans to create a Beach Club that would be a place for beach sports. If this actually happens, she believes the vibe of seaside dining will improve in terms of atmosphere, service, decor, and cleanliness.

~“I want to show what a good seaside restroom looks like—where there’s a place to rinse off, a place to store your bags, and a place to keep your sports equipment. Guys, we’re a seaside town.”

~Another outstanding detail is the small message below the bar’s name signage: “My friends are getting married, I’m getting drunk.” This contrasts with the calmness of Songkhla, and while it may be a form of self-reassurance, it subtly suggests that Songkhla residents or ‘grandpa peeps’ don’t need to conform to social norms, and the old town offers more than just daytime check-in spots.

~As you sip your cocktail, holding the glass and pondering, you might realize that Songkhla is like a reflection of childhood years beyond adolescence—a life that has been renovated and traveled, only to return to the starting point again.

~In the glass, in the old house around the corner, we might find that our identity was fully formed during our youth.

~Grandpa Never Drunk Alone is open daily from 18.00-24.00.

~Location: 263 Nakhon Nai Road, Bo Yang, Mueang Songkhla District, Songkhla 90000

~FB : facebook.com/grandpa263

~IG : @grandpaneverdrunkalone

Yap Ihian Tchoi

~A city needs a library.

~‘Yap Ihian Tchoi’ is the first library in the city library project, supported by the Department of Cultural Promotion, Ministry of Culture, the Book Studies Foundation, the Butterfly Publishing House, and the people of Songkhla.

~In 2019, Klaomas Yip-insoi, the owner of an old rice warehouse on Nakhon Nok Road, offered the space for the prototype library system development project. By 2022, the warehouse from the reign of King Rama VII was transformed into the Yap Ihian Tchoi Library.

~What catches the eye is the book column in the middle of the building, designed as a spiral structure with a grid pattern around it. This feature stands out to those observing from outside. The book column also reinforces the strength of the main column, which is vulnerable to impact and helps prevent people from running into it. Originally, the library was a warehouse that stored rice before distribution, so it bears signs of mold and mildew on the walls and requires special preservation aligned with conservation practices.

~Unlike a bookstore, a library preserves written records and certified documents, providing comprehensive information about Songkhla. It serves as a center for anyone looking for references for their research, with librarians available to offer guidance (though it also includes fiction and essays). Additionally, it provides information about Songkhla to the community, residents, businesses, and tourists.

~Located on Nakhon Nok Road, the rear area of Yap Ihian Tchoi is an open space next to Songkhla Lake. It features a separate wooden building where visitors can read, take photos, and engage in various activities. Yap Ihian Tchoi is charming both in terms of functionality and architecture and has a unique vibe. It would be wonderful if every community had its own library.

~Yap Ihian Tchoi is open Wednesday to Sunday from 09:00-17:00 (closed on Monday and Tuesday).

~Location: 213, 215 Nakhon Nok Road, Bo Yang, Mueang Songkhla District, Songkhla 90000

~FB : facebook.com/YipInTsoiLibrary/

Nusantara Songkhla

Por-Pairot Damkong and Yugo-Yugo Tham in front of Nusantara

~"Songkhla now has a gallery, a library, and graphic design work. Since I know about music, I decided to do something about it by opening a vinyl record store."

~It’s undeniable that one of the communities adding vibrancy to the city is ‘music.’ This vision of Por-Pairot Damkong, combined with the musical passion of Yugo-Yugo Tham, led to the creation of ‘Nusantara Songkhla,’ a vinyl record store, tea shop, and café on Nakhon Nai Road.

~Nusantara is also a twin shop to 22 Nakhonnok Listening Bar on Nakhon Nok Road, owned by the same person but operating at different times. Nusantara will satisfy your auditory senses during the day, while 22 Nakhonnok will embrace you at night.

~Nusantara, derived from Javanese, combines the word “Nusa,” meaning archipelago or islands, and “Antara,” meaning outer parts, thus translating to “outer islands.” This name refers to the Indonesian archipelago and the territories that were once under the ancient Majapahit Empire.

~Since Songkhla is close to three provinces along the southern borders and has a strong influence from Malay, Nusantara attracts not only Thai customers but also many international tourists, particularly from neighboring Malaysia.

~"We’re quite lucky to be close to Malaysia. Malaysians listen to vinyl records more than Thais because they enjoy Western music. We have many customers from Malaysia—Penang, Kedah, and other nearby cities."

~Not only do international vinyl records sell well, but Por also shared with EQ that it’s surprising how Malaysians also listen to Thai music.

~"Some people come to buy Thai vinyl records, and these are new Thai songs. This means that new Thai music is getting more exposure in Malaysia. Previously, if they wanted to buy Thai vinyl records, they might have had to go to Bangkok. But now, they can drive to Hat Yai or Songkhla to buy them."

~The soft yellow lighting complements the brown vintage wooden furniture, creating an atmosphere that makes selecting, enjoying, and curating a vinyl record feel different from adding items to an online shopping cart. The offline space also serves as a meeting point for vinyl enthusiasts to exchange conversations, and the drinks on the menu encourage people to visit without feeling pressured that they have to buy a vinyl record. This really creates a great atmosphere for the community.

~For someone returning to do business in their hometown, Por emphasizes that working with passion will undoubtedly enhance the city and the community.

~“There’s no business here, I started (the vinyl record store) because I love it. I just want to make Songkhla the way I envision it. I want friends from Bangkok to visit and feel that it's good, enjoyable, and has something unique. People from Japan or friends from England who visit will see something new besides old houses and delicious noodles. It also offers contemporary elements that blend with the city.”

~“Do something that you know, I mean knowledge and passion about it. Not just business,” Yugo added.

~Currently, Nusantara offers vinyl records from the 60s to the 80s, covering various styles such as jazz, pop, rock, and world music, with prices ranging from hundreds to thousands. They also plan to provide a complete range of vinyl-related equipment.

~“In the future, if this culture grows, we might have some great festivals or music events,” Por concluded.

~Nusantara Songkhla is open daily from 12:00-20:00 (closed on Tuesdays).

~22 Nakhonnok Listening Bar is open Thursday to Sunday from 18:00-24:00.

~Location: 261 Nakhon Nai Road, Bo Yang, Mueang Songkhla District, Songkhla 90000

~FB : facebook.com/people/Nusantara-Songkhla

~IG : @nusatara.ska

dot.b

~The cool thing about this bookstore in the 80-year-old Sino-European building on Nakhon Nai Road is that it opens from noon to midnight and offers a 10% discount on books if customers show a student ID.

~Although the bookstore may not generate substantial profits at the moment, it undeniably enhances the city's character.

~The first floor of dot.b is a full-fledged bookstore, while the second floor has chairs and tables for readers, serves as a board game area, a social hub for local youth, and a space for events at no cost.

~dot.b was founded by Ko-Theerapol Wanish-shang, a Songkhla native who studied in Hat Yai, worked in Bangkok, and returned to open a coffee shop called dot in Hat Yai. When the lease on the building was about to expire, he decided to find a new location in Songkhla and eventually found a reasonably priced property owned by a friend's mother. He opened the dot coffee shop on Nakhon Nok Road. The back of the shop is connected to another building that opens onto Nakhon Nai Road, where Ko decided to open a bookstore at the beginning of 2023.

~"Since I started the coffee shop in Hat Yai, I wanted to bring everything I liked together in one place. I chose to open the coffee shop first because it was more accessible. However, jumping into opening a bookstore with no knowledge and no connections was quite challenging."

~Amidst a variety of literature, translations, social writing, history, and politics neatly lined up on the shelves, Ko mentioned that it was a fortunate coincidence that dot.b was born out of the help of Aey-Ariya Paithoon, owner of the "Little Book Shop," who moved from Songkhla to Chiang Mai. Aey provided a large batch of books and various advice, which is why Songkhla still has an independent bookstore to this day.

~"We named the store Dot (.) to represent a 'point,' where visitors can come and build anything upon it."

~Ko highlights that creating a third place or an open space for people to come and relax has always been his intention since his first coffee shop in Hat Yai, and dot.b currently fulfills that intention very well.

~“I wanted to create a space that offers opportunities for everyone. Back then, there were no board game shops or bookstores in the city. I believe these things add value to the city. That’s what I am doing. I am bringing life to the city just by keeping the store open. If such a store can survive, it means the city has something going for it.”

~He also added, “I’m not sure if this is a grand mission because these things don’t show results in 1-2 years, and a bookstore might need 5-6 years to understand the impacts on visitors in 10 years.”

~However, what’s encouraging is that the main customers of dot.b are students. This subtly suggests that Songkhla remains a warm and friendly city for the younger generation and shows promising growth.

~dot.b is open Monday to Friday from 12:00-24:00, and Saturday to Sunday from 10:00-24:00.

~Location: 115 Nakhon Nai Road, Mueang Songkhla District, Songkhla 90000

~FB : facebook.com/dot.b.bookstore

~IG : @dot.b.bookstore

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